The bar on its own hasn't necessarily improved the Lolita experience. There are better tequila selections (just across the street at El Vez), and the margarita craftsmanship is spotty - a pith-bitter "clásica" and watery watermelon-rita one night, two excellent variations with blood orange and cucumber-jalapeño the next. I also loved the tamarind bourbon sour.īut the change in format (and cash flow) has allowed Lolita to actually lower its average dish prices and focus on the kind of multi-plate sharing that has finally become the norm in 2014. And while Turney still makes no claims of authenticity - her food is inspired by, rather than dictated by, traditions - her menu has evolved. There are a few more threads of genuine Mexican flavors that run through the menu of Lolita 2.0, especially with the fresh masa rounds that come off the hand-cranked tortilla press. I do not necessarily prefer this Lolita to many of the affordable taquerias that have sprouted like epazote along Ninth Street south of Washington Avenue. ![]() ![]() What Lolita does is simply different, built on good ingredients and modern style, with a fresh touch and updated aesthetic for a mainstream audience. The duck-fat tamale is an instant classic, a husk-wrapped bundle of steamy masa fluff topped with shredded smoked duck leg meat and a mahogany mole rich with ancho peppers and peanuts.Īnd when this kitchen is on, I see the appeal.
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